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FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

What is core aeration & why does my lawn need it?

Core aeration uses hollow tines to pull plugs of soil out of the ground, usually two to three inches deep, which relieves compaction and opens channels for air, water, and fertilizer to reach the root zone. Clay soil across the Merrimack Valley packs down under normal use, and once it does, grass roots stay shallow and the lawn thins out no matter how much product goes on it.

The window runs from late August through mid-October. Cool-season grasses germinate best when soil sits between roughly 55 and 70 degrees, and that lines up with early fall here. Spring is a secondary window, though it conflicts with crabgrass pre-emergent and gives new grass very little time before summer heat.
Germination generally starts between seven and twenty-one days out depending on seed type and soil warmth. New grass is usually tall enough for a first cut around week four. Thin areas read as filled in by the end of the season, and full density on a badly worn lawn usually takes two or three consecutive years.
Doing both together is the better approach. Aeration holes begin closing within a couple of weeks, so seed applied on a separate trip lands on a surface that has already started sealing up. Our equipment handles both at once, which is why we treat them as one job rather than two.
Pricing depends on turf square footage, soil condition, slope, and access. Our structure covers a base area with additional footage billed beyond it, and seeding is priced with the aeration rather than bolted on afterward. Estimates are free and come with the scope in writing, so you can see exactly what is included before deciding.

Core Aeration FAQs

Will aeration damage my lawn?
The lawn looks worse for about a week. Soil plugs sit across the surface and the ground looks torn up, which catches people off guard the first time. None of it is damaged, and the surface looks normal again within two to three weeks.

Improved water movement is immediate. Root growth into the opened soil takes several weeks. If seed went down with the aeration, germination starts between seven and twenty-one days out and thin areas fill by season’s end.

Clay soil and lawns with heavy foot traffic generally do best with annual aeration. Properties with looser soil and light use can often go every other year. Newly built homes usually need several consecutive years before the soil settles.
Before the visit, mark irrigation heads and invisible fencing so the machine can avoid them, and mow at your normal height. Watering a day or two ahead helps if conditions have been dry. Afterward, leave the plugs alone and keep the new seed damp for two weeks.

Overseeding FAQs

How long until new grass grows in?
Germination begins between seven and twenty-one days out, depending on seed type and soil warmth. Ryegrass shows first and bluegrass last. New grass is tall enough for a first mow around week four, and thin areas read as filled in by season’s end.
The routine changes. For the first ten to fourteen days the surface needs to stay damp, which means short, frequent watering rather than the deep soaks a mature lawn wants. Once seedlings are up, move toward deeper watering every other day.
Wait until the new grass reaches about three and a half inches, then take no more than a third of the height off. Sharp mower blades matter, since dull ones tear young grass out of the ground roots and all.
Pet damage responds well once the cause is addressed, since urine-burned areas need flushing before new seed will hold. Shade is different. Fine fescues handle low light better than anything else, but a spot getting under about four hours of sun daily may stay thin regardless, and thinning the tree canopy is sometimes the real fix.